In the centre of Spain – if we are to believe the Kilometre Zero stone slab in Puerta de Sol – Madrid sits at an elevation of 657 metres, giving it the most unique climate of any European capital. Cold winters, at times bitterly so, and scorching summers make it an unlikely location for a capital created five hundred years ago at the whim of King Philip II, mainly to escape ecclesiastical oversight in Toledo. It would take more than three hundred years, until 1885, before Pope Leo XIII finally intervened to instruct the Catholic Church of Spain to permit Madrid its own bishopric, thereby allowing it a cathedral.
Conflict; religious, military and political, has long-been a feature of life in Madrid. Spain’s fertile coastal land, sea ports and more temperate conditions made it a prized possession for Mediterranean, north European and African cultures. It is the capital that beat all others to South America – and so reaped the rewards and consequences of the wealth that poured in from Mexico and Peru. Around the same time, whilst the British opened-up inhospitable Newfoundland (and exported cod) Spain extracted silver, estimated to be around 150,00 tonnes, until sources were depleted.
The influx of precious metal had long-term consequences; a disinterest in, and moreover destruction of, indigenous industry, an attitude of invincibility in world affairs and the creation of an unequal society – too concerned with ‘hand kissing and royal intrigues’ in the words of Manuel Azana (Prime Minister of the Second Republic; 1931 and President; 1937-39). The two worlds of central Madrid can be seen today in the destitute of Vallecas and the affluent of Salamanca – descendants of the courtiers, chancers and rogues that arrived in the capital in the hope of advancement.
With wealth came demand for the finer things in life; grand architecture, visual arts, fashion (haute couture and mass-market), literature and the performing arts – all evident on the streets today. But, strangely not gastronomy, unless you are a fan of the traditional chickpea-based meat stew (Cocido), potato omelette and tripe dishes so loved by Madrilenos.
The arts and eating and drinking out is much in evidence in Madrid today. Europe’s largest concentration of paintings in the so-called ‘Golden Triangle’ (centered on Museo Nacional del Prado) draws millions to the city each year. And Lonely Planet reported that Madrid ranks fourth in the world for city-centre bar numbers (behind London, Tokyo and New York City) but, importantly for locals, not Barcelona!
Young Madrilenos are city people, although the agrarian-based afternoon siesta is still a protected time even in the height of winter. Unlike the British, they do not hanker after the country life associating it with relentless heat, toil and poverty. Instead, commercial opportunities, consumer pleasures (denied to their grandparents) long nights and late rises dictate the pace of life. As Elizabeth Nash comment’s in Madrid, the city is probably more appreciated by the dedicated urbanite.
This book introduces the reader to the culture of Madrid, its principal historical sights and a selection of its most ‘castizo’ (i.e., authentic) bars and restaurants, all to be savoured with a wine and tapas in hand. I hope the reader will visit many of the locations to experience Madrid’s culture and see where much of modern Spanish history took place.
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